Matt Segal, 5.14 ethic climb…
(16 votes, average: 3.81 out of 5)
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“Climbing is an endeavor driven by ethics more than rules. This short is a good insight into the forward thinking climbing ethics of the next generation of talented climbers who choose what style to practice thier art.”
Author: John Dickey
Climber: Matt Segal
Location: Boulder’s Dream Canyon (Co, USA)
Language: EN
why do you hate bolted climbs so much?
Comment by $ money — April 7, 2009 @ 6:18 pm
Well, for my part, I like bolts when there is no other option… trad climbing is another very motivating adventure, we need to keep free spaces for that. Regarding the featured quote in the post, it was written by Jhon Dickey… To have an answer to your question, you should ask it on his vimeo page (http://vimeo.com/3976756).
Comment by Administrator — April 7, 2009 @ 9:12 pm
One trend you notice in the reporting on these routes that get chopped and led on gear is either downplaying or not mentioning how much top-rope rehearsal was involved. Climbing Mag hyped the living daylights out of the Dave Macloud route Rhapsody, then you watch the E11 video of the same ascent and learn that Dave had it so wired he was doing 3 laps in a row on top rope before he led it – something the mag never told you but which Dave was admirably honest about in the vid. Then you watch this vid and no mention is made of the fact that Matt wired the route on top rope first. Whoever is pushing this agenda needs to realize that dishonest reporting sacrifices the credibility needed to push it.
Most important climbing ethic? Tell The Truth.
Comment by jghedge — April 8, 2009 @ 3:40 am
“downplaying or not mentioning how much top-rope rehearsal was involved”
Rehearsing a route via top-rope is COMPLETELY different from leading it on gear. So while I agree that the video would gain from indicating that this was definitively not a “flash” (how many 5.14’s are flashed anyway?), the fact remains that leading it on gear is a clear demonstration that putting the bolts in the first place was a mistake and it would be appropriate for them to be removed.
There’s a hell of a lot more blank faces ready for bolted sports climbs than cracks. These should be left to be climbed in the style that suits them best: Trad.
Comment by LamontagnedeGatineau — April 9, 2009 @ 5:53 am
There was no need to bolt it in the first place. But you’re kidding yourself if you think you’re making some bold statement by wiring the moves and gear on top rope first. If you’re going to do that you might as well just clip the bolts. Whatever improvement in style you claim to have made by leading it on gear is pretty much negated by the top rope rehearsal. Macloud was scrupulously honest in E11 about how much top rope practice was involved – but in this vid, it’s not even mentioned.
Comment by jghedge — April 9, 2009 @ 7:14 am
If a a less-than-expert leader is confronted with a pitch that is too much for him to lead with any degree of safety, a pitch that has been done before by well-qualified climbers without the use of bolts, that leader should simply descend and refine his skills rather than desecrate the rock with bolts.
Comment by Bruce — April 17, 2009 @ 1:24 am
stupid
Comment by Anonymous — April 24, 2009 @ 7:54 pm
Who cares whether or not he top roped it first or not? I mean I agree it should have been said in the movie, but let’s go back to basics here. The majority of this bolt chopping “trend” is derived from leave no trace ethics. Why leave a trace, bolt it, when there is no need too? Bolts should be removed to preserve the original state of the rock, not for bragging rights anyway. So I think he did a good thing by removing the bolts; they are unsightly and should have never been there. That is why most people hate bolts so much.
Comment by Kevin — May 12, 2009 @ 6:29 am
Amusing that this got such hype, and Mike Patz’s ascent was pretty much ignored by the greater climbing media. Personally, I think that Patz is a good deal more handsome than Segal, and therefore should have received more attention. If we keep making climbing movies featuring people of middling attractiveness, it’s going to be really hard to make climbing more mainstream and sexually charged. Just food for thought.
Comment by Andy — September 8, 2010 @ 5:45 pm